Summer in Southeast Alaska

When thoughts of Alaska swirl around, images of snow-ridden landscapes, storm-bound crab boats, dense forests and wild bears quickly come to mind. While this is not entirely wrong, it’s also a very condensed (and limiting) version of what Alaska offers.

By the end of our week of exploring, I decided that Alaska has all my favorite things rolled into one beautiful burrito: hikes, glaciers, breweries and endless opportunities to be one with nature. One week is not nearly enough, but it’ll do until I can return. And mark my words, Alaska, I will be back soon because there is so much to see.

While planning our summertime itinerary, we massively underestimated Alaska’s size while overestimating its level of infrastructure. Sure, it’s the largest U.S. state, but it’s hard to conceptualize just how large it is. For our one-week visit, we originally made an ambitious (and laughable) itinerary; Anchorage, Kenai Fjords, Denali, Wrangell-St. Elias, Seward.

As it turns out, there is one road throughout all of Alaska and merely driving from place to place would take a week. Realizing that each National Park deserves its own trip, we opted to stick to the Anchorage area and focus on Kenai Fjords - a spectacular slice of Alaskan wilderness.

ANCHORAGE

Our (longer-than-anticipated) flight landed in the morning, and instead of diving headfirst into Alaska’s wilderness, we opted to overnight in the city to get our bearings. Did we need to do this? No. Would I recommend it? Also, no. In hindsight, we would have preferred to skip Anchorage altogether and spend more time exploring further out, but a lovely time was had nonetheless. There was also a fancy tie-wearing cat that greeted us at our hotel, so there’s really nothing to complain about.

Potter’s Marsh Boardwalk

This little area is about a 20-minute drive from downtown Anchorage. Allegedly there is wildlife to be seen, though we saw no such thing. It is also right next to the highway, as in it is literally parallel to the road, so it isn’t the most serene of experiences. In any case, it was a pretty stroll around the boardwalk.

when in doubt, drink it out

What better way to explore a less-than-exciting city than to drink and eat your way through it? Beers were had, rooftop bars were found, and we surprisingly even stumbled on a speakeasy. A few favorites include:

49th State Brewing Co.
Willowa Social Bar (speakeasy inside)
Snow City Cafe

Anchorage Brewing Co.
King Street Brewing Co.

MATANUSKA GLACIER

While it was a wonderful trip through and through, our time in Matanuska was a true delight and somewhere I would return to in a heartbeat. This stunning glacier is nestled between mountains and extends for 26 miles into the great Alaskan unknown, just begging to be explored.

Now, I’ve done my fair share of amazing activities around the globe and I have to say, my trekking experience here makes the Top 10. (Please don’t ask me what else is on the Top 10 list, because it doesn’t actually exist, though if it did, Matanuska would undoubtedly be on there.) With its unbelievable blue water and towering white ice, it is the stuff of glacier dreams. Plus, it is by far the most beautiful place I’ve ever peed - dare I say, even in the Top 10 places I’ve done so (no, there is also not a list for this, but my creative juices are starting to flow - stay tuned), Also, sorry for those offended by my peeing on a glacier, but when you’re in the middle of an ice sheet and you gotta go, well, you gotta go.

glacier trekking

We opted for a more middle-of-the-road activity when it came to our glacier adventure - something longer than a short hike but less intense than a massive ice climb workout. Enter the Advanced Glacier Trek with MICA Guides. This faster paced, full-day itinerary was around 8-hours and 6-miles of glorious trekking. Plus, since we stayed at Alpenglow (see below and swoon your toosh off), it was only a 20-minute drive to the start trail head. (Or is it technically a “glacier head”?)

ALPENGLOW LUXURY CAMPING

While I hope you read this whole post, if your only takeaway is that YOU MUST VISIT ALPENGLOW, then my job here is done. Yes, all caps and bold to capture your attention as this slice of Alaskan paradise is perfect in every way.

Three luxury tents sit on the property, each with a ridiculously comfortable bed that boasts front-row-in-your-face views of Matanuska Glacier and the surrounding mountains. The communal areas include a rustic cedar hot tub, a kitchen (breakfast included), outdoor eating area, fire pit, and lawn games. We were initially welcomed with a complimentary cold beer from their keg and an adorable pup trotting around, and if that’s not a solid enough selling point, I don’t know what is. Even the outhouse was charming - a sentence I never thought I’d say, but here we are.

The universe bestowed Alpenglow upon us after we booked our glacier trek with MICA Guides. Luxury tent accommodations are their newest venture, and by purchasing a tour, you also receive 15% off a stay at Alpenglow (marketing at its finest, am I right?). The best part is that for early morning tours, you need only to walk a short distance to the meeting point (or drive if you happen to be as lazy as us…), and there is even a small coffee stand, which was an absolute blessing. I can’t emphasize how lovely it is to adventure all day and not have to sit in a car for hours back to your accommodations, but instead, just mosey a few minutes to your tent heaven.

Due to availability, we booked our stay here at the start of our trip, but if possible, I highly recommend ending with it. Not only is it a wonderful place to relax, but primarily because it sets the bar really high and everything after is “no Alpenglow.”

PORTAGE PASS

We unwittingly left our beautiful Alpenglow for other lands due south. Taking what felt like the only road that exists in Alaska, we passed back through Anchorage on our way to Seward, making a stop at Portage Pass for a day hike.

Quick Fun Fact: Despite the fact that Alaska has a land mass of 586,412 square miles, their Interstate Highway System has only 4 highways that cover a total of 1,082 miles, meaning that only 20% of Alaska is accessible by road.

Now back to Portage Pass.

This hike is a 1.5 hour drive from Anchorage and involves a tolled one-way tunnel. This is important for planning purposes as the Whittier Tunnel opens in different directions depending on the hour and season. It also closes at night, so try not to get stuck on one side! Before visiting, you’ll want to check the schedule.

Now actually back to Portage Pass...

The moderate hike is 5.4 miles round trip, gaining 1,578 feet of elevation. From the trail head, it is a steep climb that consistently affords views of the city below, and hikers can end their journey at the first stopping point overlooking the glacier, or continue down to see it up close. We chose to get all up in that glaciery goodness.

seward: Gateway to kenai

Alas, we arrived in Seward, beat from a hike and eager to consume copious beers - something we were confident Seward could deliver, and it certainly did. Known best for its fishing, wildlife, and glaciers, this quaint port town lies 130 miles south of Anchorage (2-3 hour drive) and is a gorgeous drive with ample photo-worthy stops along the way. While there are accommodations in town, we decided to stay at Lowell Point on Resurrection Bay.

Miller’s Landing at Lowell Point

When referring to amenities in Alaska, calling something “nice” is quite relative. We learned that “nice” can encompass anything from shambling ruins to a fancy hotel, and instead, most things are lovingly referred to as “Alaskan Chic.” For those without the privilege of experiencing Alaskan Chic for themselves, it is essentially a tactful way of rolling together the words “rustic,” “dilapidated,” and “quirky” into one nice catchall phrase. Miller’s Landing, my dear readers, is Alaskan Chic at its absolute finest.

We stayed in a small cabin on the water which, judging by the photos online, was to be a remote Alaskan dream. Reality, of course, was a bit different. Yes, it was idyllically placed on the water, but it was also 3 feet away from the pull-up trailer lot. The “reception” wasn’t top-notch either as I was finally acknowledged (though that is a generous term for the mostly wordless interaction) after standing and staring at the man behind the counter, who eventually said, “yeah?” to me. Once we made it to the cabin, we found it covered in cobwebs, coffee stains on the table, and a broken window was covered by an old cardboard beer box. Despite it being the first place we stayed at with two beds available, we opted to cuddle into the bottom, less-cobwebbed one. Nonetheless, we made a fire in the stove to keep warm and woke up to the amazing sunrise outside our window. Mmmm, Alaskan Chic.

best Eats & drinks

For being a small town, Seward had a surprising array of food options, from cafeteria style eateries and food trucks to waterside sit-downs, pubs, and hip cafes. We also made food on the JetBoil back at our cabin and enjoyed drinks by the fire (which was the first one I successfully made on my own - victory!). If you’re heading into Seward, here are a few favorites:

Seward Brewing Company
Sea Bean Cafe

Resurrect Art Coffee House
Chinooks Restaurant

kenai fjords national park

We spent three days in this beautiful area and likely could have spent many more. From mountain hikes and glaciers, to seaside sunrises and wildlife viewing by boat, we were consistently privy to an array of stellar landscapes.

day cruise

There are several companies operating tours through the fjords, though we ultimately opted to go with the creatively named Kenai Fjords Tours on their equally aptly-named Kenai Fjords National Park Tour ($153 per adult). While cruising through Resurrection Bay, we spied a plethora of wildlife, including a momma whale teaching it’s baby to blow, mountain goats precariously on the cliffs, seals, sea lions, one single otter, and a smorgasbord of birds. We also sailed close to Holgate Glacier and other ridiculously beautiful natural landscapes.

The cruise was 6 hours of exploration and allowed us to sleep in since it started at 11:30 am, which was a real bonus. Plus, we received a decent lunch and there were even fresh-baked cookies at the end. A beautiful day all around!

exit glacier

A network of trails lead to views of Exit Glacier, with the best (in my opinion) being from the empty river in front of it - just pop off the main trail and mosey around. If you are looking for something more than a nature walk, may I recommend hiking Harding Ice Field…

harding ice field

8.2 miles | 3800 elevation gain

This strenuous hike takes you to a massive 700 square mile ice field, which is the start of over 40 glaciers, most notable being Exit Glacier. Getting there is an arduous task as it gains nearly 1,000 feet per mile, and you will consume nearly 1,000 bugs in the process. To keep morale up, there are expansive views the whole way and we happened to visit when the fireweed was at its purperly prime.

farwell, Alaska

It is impossible to experience all that Alaska has to offer in a short week, but boy did we do our best. It was a blissful time of hiking, brewery-hopping, tent-living, and glacier trekking, and I look forward to returning (many more times) to see the rest of Alaska’s boundless beauty.

With the Inside Passage, Wrangell-St. Elias, Denali, the Northern Lights, and numerous other National Parks, there is no shortage of adventures to be had, so I imagine I’ll find myself there sooner rather than later. Until then, I’ll be dreaming of Alaskan sunrises and casually be here thinking about that cat wearing a tie and wondering what he is up to.