Puerto Rico in Eight Photos: A Summary of a Small Island

01. straddling two worlds

During my visit in January 2019, Puerto Rico felt more like a different country than an extension of the United States. Its Spanish-speaking citizens and geographical distance (particularly from Seattle) undoubtedly had a hand in this. In other ways, however, it didn’t feel like I wandered too far as the overall cultural transition was minimal: most Puerto Ricans speak English, the official currency is the U.S. dollar, and it is simple to fly to and from.

Since the Spanish-American war in 1898, Puerto Rico has been an unincorporated territory of the United States. As such, it delicately balances its native culture with the influence of the U.S., often teetering between two worlds. For example, the island is controlled by the U.S. government, yet they cannot vote in congress or in presidential elections. (Mind-blowing, I know.) And though it is not a state, Puerto Ricans are American citizens by birthright and can move freely about the country.

Over the years, Puerto Ricans and mainland citizens alike have debated its fate; some want to fight for its independence, while others prefer it become full-fledged a state. Some vacillate between the two depending on the day.

02. paradise found

Much of Puerto Rico’s draw is in its tropical dreaminess. Perhaps most compelling is Culebra, a small group of islands 18 miles off the eastern coast. The clear blue water envelops swimmers in a warm hug that’s hard to leave and the sand brushes the skin like liquid silk. Palm trees line the beach, their far-reaching limbs dusts the sand in shade, leading into the lush green jungle.

The island itself is fairly quiet, which, in my opinion, only adds to its appeal. No rows of commercial food joints are found here. Nay, just wooden bungalows, endless beach, and the occasional sea turtle. Like I said, tropical dreaminess.

I made the unforgivable mistake of doing a day trip from Fajardo to Flamenco Beach when, in hindsight, I absolutely should have packed my bags and stayed for a few days - or a few weeks. If you find yourself in Puerto Rico, I beg you to learn from my mistakes.

03. a subtle powerhouse

If Puerto Rico were a person, I’d argue that they are unobtrusive, yet unflinchingly confident and strong. This presented itself in the demeanor of the locals as well in its artistic flair. I especially enjoyed the street art, much of which was discreetly tucked along cracks in the walls. Its quiet confidence also slips into its nightlife.

One evening I enjoyed a drink at La Factoria, Old San Juan’s famous bar. I had a cocktail (or two) and strolled back to my place afterward. It was a low-key event. Later, I would learn, this apparently meant I did it entirely wrong. Oops.

The next evening, a local made it his personal duty to ensure I experienced La Factoria properly. Soft music played as we entered the old brick building, passing by the barstool I sat upon the night before. Instead of grabbing a seat, he went confidently toward the bathroom and faded into the wall. Intrigued by this disappearing act, I slowly followed. The wall opposite the lovely toilets was not actually a wall at all, but a small entryway no more than 2 feet wide.

Through it, I emerged into a dark small cave, with the atmosphere immediately changing. A mix of electronic music loudly echoed off the stone walls, its sound filling the air between the laughter and chatter of people. How I didn’t hear the music the night before is beyond me, though clearly Puerto Ricans know a thing or two about soundproof wall insulation. Again, we did not stop, nor could we as there was no room left. He continued through yet another small doorway.

The next room was equally dark, but much larger. As we stepped in, the sound of electronic thumping was immediately replaced by a lively band playing upbeat salsa music. In this new world, couples slid across the dance floor like melting butter, their feet slicing the air to the beat. For the next hour, we danced alongside them, me looking more like a robotic turtle trying to keep up with the effortless movement of a Puerto Rican. As it turns out, I did, in fact, do La Factoria very wrong initially, but this robotic turtle was quickly making up for lost time.

04. a word on colonization

There’s a little explorer - you’ve probably heard of him - he sailed the ocean blue and not-so politely conquered land in the Americas to spread the good European word.

Ah yes, Christopher Columbus, or as he is sometimes known in Spanish, Cristobal Colon. In Old San Juan, he has both a park and statue to commemorate his “discovery” of Puerto Rico 400 years ago. As a friendly reminder, the colonization of Puerto Rico involved enslaving the local Taino people, and only a few decades after Columbus’ arrival, nearly the entire native population was decimated (thanks in part to his good friend Juan Pounce de Leon). But don’t worry, there’s a statue - and a whole plaza - lest one forget.

While I cannot speak to the personal views of the locals, this statue further cemented my thoughts of Puerto Rico as a crossroads of colliding cultures, often at the mercy of its conquerers.

05. color

As so often happens with colonization, European influences are seen throughout Old San Juan. Many of the streets in the historic centre, and the architecture along them, are reminiscent of Lisbon or Madrid, though with a colorful Puerto Rican twist.

Buildings come in all shades - muted oranges, bright pinks, vivid yellows, soft purples, mellow greens. Walking the cobblestone streets often felt like taking a stroll alongside a life-size painter’s pallet, with the unending and ever-changing color lending a playful tone to an already upbeat city.

06. cats

Also along the colorful streets of Old San Juan are an astounding number of cats. In fact, there is an entire park for them along Old San Juan’s boardwalk. Did I know this before I took a nice evening stroll? No. Was I pleasantly surprised to be surrounded by cats at sunset? Absolutely.

Save a Gato is a non-profit organization blazing the cat welfare trail in Old San Juan. Founded in 2004, they consist of a team of volunteers that spays and neuters, vaccinates, and posts adoptions of their feline friends. For cats that to keep to their outdoor life, Save a Gato puts food out in designated areas.

While they are not a shelter, their work has successfully reduced the feral cat population by 50%, which is pretty impressive if you ask me.

07. hurricane

When Puerto Rico consistently exudes a lively atmosphere, it can be easy to forget its moments of destruction at the hands of natural disaster. Walking through the streets, there are constant, yet subtle, reminders; homes that were never fixed sit quietly behind boards and facades remain with crumbling walls and missing shutters.

Hurricane Maria, in particular, brought severe devastation when she swept through the island in September 2017. Over 3,000 lives lost and $90 billion of infrastructural damage later, Puerto Rico has been clawing its way out of the literal and metaphorical rubble.

A mental health crisis followed in its wake with higher suicide rates, unimaginable grief, and increased anxiety among survivors. It spurred a humanitarian crisis with 95% of the island without electricity, lack of access to water, and destroyed homes - even months after disaster struck. The lack of a swift response from the U.S. and the inadequate aid that followed also led to growing tensions between the small island and its overseer.

Despite the immense challenges, Puerto Rico has since re-built its communities. Its tourism has also increased, as it should since its beauty, alongside its extraordinarily friendly people, make it a wonderful place to explore.

08. pride

If there is something that Puerto Rico has a surplus of, it is national pride. From the ample display of flags and confident chatter among locals, to their food (plantains, anyone?), it is clear that there is no shortage of pride among Puerto Ricans.

Perhaps most notable is the sweeping positivity throughout the island - this despite the consistent mishandling of crises by the U.S. and general mistrust of its governing body - yet Puerto Rico does not falter. Instead, it pulls its shoulders back, stands tall, and proudly smiles.