Best of Indonesia: Ten Spots Outside of Bali
Beyond the shores of Bali lay 17,000 islands begging to be explored. After two years of adventures in Indonesia, These are my top ten recommendations to add to your Itinerary - plus two bonus places I’ve yet to visit but know I’d love.
Indonesia and I have had some fun together. I met mummies and attended a stranger’s funeral in Sulawesi, took care of a sun bear named Balu in Tabanan, received seven stitches in Nusa Lembongan, had those stitches almost torn out by a monkey in Makassar, witnessed traditional ram fighting in Bandung, hung out with cows on the beach in the Gilis, worked at an Islamic school in Cibinong and fed more cats than I can count across more islands than I can name. Hats off to you, Indonesia, for you truly are the bedrock of my misadventures.
After seeing so much of this country, it is almost heartbreaking that Bali gets a bulk of the attention. I found that whenever the word “Indonesia” was said, the word “Bali” quickly followed. It’s an uncomfortable truth, but in the words of Tupac (or Phil Collins, if that’s more your speed), that’s just the way it is. To a degree, I get it; travelers want to see the best parts of a country with the little time they have and with its boom in tourism, Bali is where the people go. But what if I told you that it isn’t the best? That it’s not even close.
So let me share a not-so-secret secret: Indonesia is very, very large. It is also very, very diverse.
While I’ve had many (mis)adventures, as lovingly remembered above, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend those places to someone visiting Indonesia, especially for the first time. Without any language skills, many of them would be tough to navigate and fully enjoy. So fear not, I’m not sending you to the middle of nowhere to possibly stumble on a ram fight, though if you find yourself in a random place similar to it, great - it’s Indonesia, the chances are very high. Instead, this list includes destinations I would recommend to a friend - and what are strangers on the internet reading my blog but the dearest of virtual friends.
To orient yourself and have a peek at what the remainder of this post includes, use the map below. If you’re in a hurry, the table of contents below it will be your friend.
Best For | Indonesia first-timers, Tropical scenery, itinerary-packers
Highlights | Kelimutu Lakes, Maumere beaches, Bajawa village
If I were to send a first-timer to only one place in Indonesia, Flores would be it. The northernmost island of East Nusa Tenggara caters equally to adventurers, relaxation-enthusiasts and culture-seekers - all with the spirit of Indonesia remaining alive and well.
While it’s not the most popular place for travelers, it certainly is not the least visited either, making it a good middle ground for those looking to get off the beaten path without straying too far. Not only does its size promote further exploration (and there’s a lot to see!), but its proximity to Bali also makes it an easy itinerary add-on.
In Flores, you’ll find all that delicious tropical goodness that Indonesia is famous for in one neat little package: quintessential soft-sand beaches, wildlife, lush jungles and mountains. Then throw in its bright rice fields, searing blue lakes and a laid back culture and you’re all set.
Best For | Nature, hiking, wildlife
Highlights | Supiso Piso waterfall, Samosir island, Bukit Luwang orangutan trek, Mount Sibiyak volcano
Sumatra is probably the top contender as my favorite Indonesian island. (I say “probably” because it is very difficult to choose between a couple thousand islands.) Lake Toba, in the northern tip of Sumatra, was created by a massive super-volcano eruption 75,000 years ago. Today it holds the bragging rights as the world’s largest crater lake and is arguably the most popular place to visit, though you’ll still be hard-pressed to find tourist hoards.
While travelers can easily relax on its shores, it’s better known for a medley of nearby adventures. Among my favorites are Sipiso Piso waterfall and Mount Sibiyak, a 7ish mile hike to a “dormant” volcano. Another must-do is Samosir, an island within Lake Toba. If you walk for long enough you’ll eventually stumble on a small lake on Samosir, finding yourself at a lake on an island within a lake on an island.
Though a bit further away, Bukit Luwang offers an unforgettable opportunity to witness orangutans in the wild. Can’t make it? No problem, there are plenty of dogs to say hello to in Toba. They’re no orangutans, but they’re still real cute.
Best For | Unique Culture, morbid curiosity, natural scenery
Highlights | A homestay, attending a funeral, Batutumonga, Ke’te kesu’
I’ve waxed poetic about Tana Toraja but I can’t help myself, it’s just too gosh darn fascinating not to. If you’re in the market for the culture trip of a lifetime, buckle up because Tana Toraja will take you on an a one-of-a-kind adventure.
Situated in Sulawesi’s gorgeous green highlands, Tana Toraja is easy on the eyes, though most who visit aren’t there for the view. Those who do make the journey are following their morbid curiosity. Torajans spend their lives preparing for their imminent death and it shows in all aspects of their life, from their intricate funerals (which feel more like community-wide parties) to living alongside - and caring for - the mummies of their dead relatives.
It takes work to reach but like all good things that take great effort, it is worth it. Plus, I can almost guarantee that it is an experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world.
Read More | The Living Dead: Understanding the Culture of Tana Toraja
Best For | Beach bums, Tropical scenery, few crowds
Highlights | Pangkal Pinang, Danau Kaolin Belitung, any and all beaches
There was a long moment of hesitation before I added this to the list as Bangka, an island off the eastern coast of Sumatra, is a secret gem that feels sacred to me. That said, sharing is caring and Bangka is not my secret to keep.
Bangka Island is but one of several islands to explore in the area, albeit the largest. Visit the main town of Pangkal Pinang (which never gets old to say) and the beach town of Sungai Liat. The beaches are plentiful so just get out there and find your favorites; enjoy a nice swim, a good ol’ fashioned snorkel or just a solid laze in the sun. I found the beaches here to be reminiscent of the Seychelles with their large boulders, bright blue water and white sand. On Belitung, the next largest island to the southeast, the highlight is Danau Kaolin Belitung, a startlingly blue lake surrounded by white mineral clay.
Best For | Lizard lovers, natural scenery, marine activities
Highlights | Komodo National Park, Padar Island, Pink Beach
Komodo Island rarely needs an introduction but for those new to it here is a summary: giant man-eating lizards, remarkable views, beaches galore.
Yes, Komodo Island is home to the Komodo dragon, the world’s largest lizard. These funky-looking 10-footers are basically nature’s garbage disposal and eagerly eat just about anything, including their own babies, and yes, humans. While females are asexual and can produce on their own (they don’t need no man), they don’t mind mating either. Ladies leave a scent in their poo which males follow, and if that’s not the most romantic courting practice, I don’t know what is.
Aside from dragons, there is plenty to keep one busy. Snorkel in the crystal clear waters (with mantas, if it please you), take a short hike to a panoramic viewpoint on Padar Island, hop between the medley of drool-worthy islands, and splay your toes in the ever-so-popular Pink Beach sand.
Best For | culture-seekers, temple enthusiasts, art
Highlights | Borobudur temple, Prambanan temple, Taman Sari Water Castle, Jomblong cave
Java, Indonesia’s most populous island, can be a bit overwhelming for first-timers; there’s just a whole lot happening there just about all of the time. Yogyakarta, however, feels somewhat different. Sure, it still maintains the same hectic Javanese atmosphere, but it also feels more calm, cool and collected. The fact that it’s the only region ruled by a sultan also sets it apart from the rest of Indonesia.
Jogja (as it’s more commonly known), sits at the bottom center of Central Java, as if serving as the island’s anchor. It is a youthful city in demographics but ancient in history, and serves as a cultural hub boasting an abundance of traditional arts, such as the famous batik technique.
Perhaps the biggest draw are its ancient temples dating back to the 9th century, with Borobudur (a Buddhist temple) and Prambanan (a Hindu temple) being most notable. Adventurous day trips to spectacular caves and beaches are also not to be missed.
Read More | A Weekend in Yogyakarta
Prambanan Temple
Inside Jomblong Cave
Taman Sari Water Castle
Best For | Tropical relaxation, beach parties, water sports
Highlights | Gili meno, Beach cows, the sweet art of doing nothing
Three small islands, each with a distinct personality, sit off the northwestern coast of Lombok. Lombok, being only one island over from Bali, is a great itinerary add-on or alternative destination from the bustling crowd in Bali.
Gili Trawangan, known as the party island, is the largest of the trio and the most popular. Gili Air is where visitors will find more culture and adventure. Gili Meno, sandwiched in the middle, offers a quiet, laid-back experience. Each has the quintessential treasure trove of beach goodies, so no fear on missing out on any of that. There is soft sand, fresh coconuts, warm water, swaying palms - the works.
My memories consist of late night movies on a projector on the beach, sunbathing beside rogue cows and seeing the most spectacular sunsets of my life.
Best For | Jungles, adventure, getting off-grid
Highlights | Bukittininggi, rimba Ecolodge, Harau Valley
While Padang was one of my favorite Indonesian experiences, I don’t pitch it as a stand-alone destination. This area is best suited for the well-traveled, those on a budget and only if you’re okay with sub-par comfort. Even for those that self-identify with these groups, I recommend visiting only if you have a lot of time or planning to already be on or near Sumatra.
So how did it wind up on this list? A.) it offers a real feel for Indonesia. B.) it is a great jumping off point for Sumatra’s trifecta of beaches, jungles and mountains - add in culture and adventure and you’ve found a recipe for success. And c.) because I like it and this is my list.
What made it so special for me? Rimba Ecolodge. Staying here felt like visiting a friend, mostly because it was literally just two of us travelers and our host, a great guy who roamed his small slice of paradise with no shirt, no shoes, nor a care in the world. Our days were spent kayaking with turtles, eating banana pancakes, talking about the world, laying in hammocks, collecting sea shells and watching hermit crabs. It easily rates among the most peaceful few days of my life.
To explore further and get off the grid (as if Sumatra isn’t way off it already), head to the Mentawai Islands, a haven for surfers and culture-vultures. To be literally surrounded by lush greenery, travel two hours north of Padang to Bukittinggi.
Staying at Rimbu Ecolodge on the coast of West Sumatra
Harau Valley, near Bukittinggi
The beach at Rimbu Ecolodge
Best For | Adventurers, Volcano lovers, early-risers
Highlights | Bromo Crater rim, midnight trek into Ijen, sunrise at bromo
These two aren’t exactly right next to each other but the duo are close enough to check off during a single stay in East Java. If you can get past the crowds and endure waking up at the buttcrack of dawn, both demonstrate spectacular feats of nature.
Mount Bromo is like a classic drawing of a volcano with its top off (sounds scandalous). From afar, it looks gentle with greenery crawling up and down its sides. However, once you cross the vast sandy desert filled with crevasses and climb to its rim, you’ll find that it’s actually an angry (and smelly) crater with a lot of steam to blow off.
Kawah Ijen is a unique volcano to the east of Bromo. By day, it is a teal lake within a crater and men are consistently hauling yellow sulphur out of its depths. By night, it is a free-for-all of people making their way into the crater to witness its phenomenal show of dancing blue flames, which only reveal themselves in the wee hours of the morning.
Read More | Midnight Hike to Kawah Ijen
Best For | island enthusiasts, scenery, Itinerary-packers
Highlights | Devil’s tears, kelingking Beach, Atuh Beach
If you are uninterested or unable to leave the confines of Bali, I implore you to at least venture to Penida, a group of three islands off the southeastern coast of Bali.
Nusa Penida, the largest of the trio, offers the popular slew of sights; the cliffs of Atuh Beach, Kelingking Beach (yes, this is that photo you have surely seen), Broken Beach, Angel’s Billabong and more. I find renting a motorbike to be the best way to explore as it allows you to leisurely hit all the main spots (which are wide-spread), while scoping out a few unknown gems along the way. I also highly recommend a stop at Penida Colada, for a midday cocktail on the beach.
While Penida has the sights, it doesn’t have many places to stay. I recommend making Nusa Lembongan a home base as it has a selection of accommodations and plenty of sights on its own turf, including the amazing Devil’s Tears cliffs and waves. The smallest island, Nusa Cenigan, is more of a transit island, though not without its own things to see and do.
Read More | Nusa Lembongan: A Penida Gem
Bonus places
Both of these destinations were - and remain - high on my list to visit but required more logistical planning at the time and I didn’t end up visiting them. In the future, I intend to visit both, particularly because of the opportunities to learn about wildlife, culture and nature conservation.
Photo courtesy of World Wildlife Foundation
For a truly wild experience, look no further than the rugged jungles of Kalimantan, the Indonesian side of Borneo. At Tanjung Puting National Park, visitors can catch glimpses of orangutans as they roam freely about and then take a boat to Camp Leaky, the famous research base that Jane Goodall spent much time at.
Photo courtesy of Wonderful Indonesia
Papua is the farthest east you can go along the Indonesian archipelago and its culture couldn’t be any more different. Raja Ampat is the most famous spot to visit and is home to breathtaking scenery and a remarkable underwater world. A trek into the depths of Papua leads to the Baliem Valley where local tribes haven’t let modernization overtake their traditions.
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