The Ausangate Trek

Peru is a country near and dear to me. It is filled with incredibly scenery, ancient history and strong Pisco sours. And let us not forget the population of llamas and alpacas. It’s truly a place after my heart.

After three months spent in the sticky jungles and warm beaches of Costa Rica, the mountains of Cusco, Peru were a welcome change of pace. With the sudden change in altitude and climate, I found myself in need of all things warm, and in only a few days time, I was the proud owner of two llama sweaters, several llama socks, one llama hat, and a down jacket (not llama-based) for good measure.

My month in Cusco was spent visiting Incan ruins during the day and slinging drinks at a hostel by night, a lovely combination of activities. While not imbibing the young tourists of Cusco, I set off to explore nearby towns, celebrate New Years in Plaza de Armas, and of course, hike Machu Picchu. My favorite adventure of all, however, was an impromptu camping (mis)adventure to Ausangate, although I did not know it was in Ausangate while I was there. At the time, I was happy to hike toward unknown snowcapped mountains, soak in natural hot springs, and pitch a tent in a field of llamas.

Finding Ausangate: A Scavenger Hunt

We went camping along the Ausangate Trek, which we did not know was actually called the “Ausangate Trek” until after we hiked it. At the time, it was merely a lovely mountain area that looked inviting for an overnight hike. We heard about it from another couple in Cusco that said there was a great hike in the nearby mountains with hot springs. From our brief conversation with them, we had a few clues to get us there and then made a game plan.

clues:

– It was somewhere close to Cusco
– The city it starts in starts with a ‘T’
– It was a short word, maybe 5 or 6 letters
– It was near a large mountain
– The words “waka waka” written on a note (this unsurprisingly had zero relevance whatsoever)

step-by-step guide*

1. Decide you want to camp in the mountains
2. Choose a place to camp (See next section)
3. Go

* I do not recommend fully this guide

And that is how we eventually found ourselves standing in front of this beauty:

prepping for an adventure

We did what all intelligent people do when it comes to seeking quality information - we sought the guidance of the all-knowing Google. Unfortunately, it turned out that even Google was at a loss. We then took the archaic and antiqued approach to travel by consulting a map (ingenious inventions, those maps are).

After much staring and contemplation, we concluded that the city we were seeking was either “Tinki” or “Tinta,” both which were near mountains and relatively close to Cusco. Plus, they were short 5-letter words that started with a “T,” which felt like a good starting point. After a little debate, a few more failed Google searches, and a lot of confused head shakes, we settled on Tinki for no reason more than it rolled off the tongue better.

With our eyes on the prize, we rented camp equipment, bought food, and took off!

GETTING THERE (OR SOMEWHERE)

A bus to Tinki, a taxi , and several kind locals offering directions later… we arrived at a sign saying, “BIENVENIDOS AL CIRCUITO AUSANGATE!” which we took to be a good sign (pun intended). Although we were not 100% sure (or even 60%) that it was THE place, we were happy it was at least A place. Feeling satisfied at our arrival, we snapped a picture of the sign, which also depicted a map, and headed into the great Peruvian unknown.

Along the way, we were occasionally shown the way by locals who kindly turned us into the correct direction (wherever that direction was). We concluded that this was either out of sheer kindness or because we were standing in their yard. We met traditional Peruvian families, encountered herds of hungry alpacas, and were attacked by candy-hungry children, a bread-hungry kitten, and several attention-hungry black dogs (there is no diversity of color, only black). All the while keeping the massive snowcapped mountain of Ausangate head of us.

An undetermined amount of miles later (7? 6?) we decided to surrender and ask a local where on earth we were and if we were remotely close to a campsite. This local, named Santiago, uttered these blessed words: “You have arrived, camp anywhere! That way are hot springs and over there is the bathroom.” We made it!

While we set up camp in what I can only assume was Santiago’s yard, we noticed the ground was covered in a little bit of llama poop (by “a little” I mean “a lot”). On the hillside, the pooping culprits on the hillside awkwardly staring at us with their judge-y little llama eyes. No matter, we were finally somewhere and it was perfect.

exploring the land

We awoke to sounds of breathing outside our tent, a somewhat unsettling sound under most circumstances, however, when I slowly unzipped the tent, I was greeted by a black dog happily informing us it was time to wake up. We moseyed to the hot springs for a little dip, then hiked 12 or so miles (presumably) towards the mountain and back.

On our journey we stumbled upon small lagoons, encountered snow, and made friends with a variety of creatures (including but not limited to: llamas, sheep, dogs, and colorful locals). Ahead of us was the breathtaking mountain of Ausangate, to our side were smaller snowcapped Andean peaks, and behind us were miles of green expanse; a picture of perfection and perspective for far we had come.

belated research

When we returned to Cusco, I again turned to Google and found that we had apparently hiked along what is officially known as the “Ausangate Trek,” and just as my legs would agree, it is said to be one of the more difficult treks in Peru. Our DIY adventure only covered a small leg of the trek, and I’m honestly glad we didn’t find ourselves stuck needing to complete the whole enchilada.

Here’s is what I learned about the trek (which would have likely been more helpful before the trip, but alas, I digress):

– Ausangate is a 5-day trek
– Due to its difficulty, it is best recommended for experienced hikers
– Hired guides are highly recommended
– Ausangate is at an elevation of 20,945 feet (perspective: Mt. Rainier is at 14,411 ft and Mt. Everest is at 29,029 ft.)
– You are constantly hiking at an altitude of 14,500 feet (at the low end) and should properly acclimate prior to the trek
– The hike is best done May-September when the weather is good and hundreds gather to camp and experience the mountain festivals

Map courtesy of Machu Picchu Trek Guide

We hiked for 2.5 days, at a fraction of the cost, on our own, in the opposite direction, with no physical preparation, improperly acclimatization, at the beginning of January. Basically, we did it all wrong. If you are serious about doing this trek “correctly” (recommended), then I’d check out guides created by those far wiser than myself, such as Ausangate Trek and Rainbow Mountain — Complete Guide by Stingy Nomads and Ausangate Trek – Complete Guide To The Highest Trek In Peru by Machu Picchu Trek Guide.

But what is truly wrong with “wrong” anyway? We had the entire mountain to ourselves, save for a few hikers in a tour group that looked liked they had been trampled by a pack of llamas, plus we were completely self-sufficient, went at our own pace and had the chance to experience the genuine kindness of locals. Technically, we only did a portion of the trek and subsisted on mangos and “tuna,” but I still think our way was pretty phenomenal and a perfect start to 2016. While I am happy with my experience, I hope those interested in going will do a more proper job of researching in order to be better prepared.

a new year

Speaking of 2016, we rang in the New Year in Cusco’s Plaza de Armas amongst a thousand people while the city and mountainsides lit up with fireworks and cheering. Admittedly, some of the fireworks were a bit on the sketchy, as they were lit from inside the crowd. Yes, I literally mean from inside the crowd. We would see a flash of light and suddenly a huge space would open up as people fled from the small explosion. It was disturbingly very casual.

Once midnight hit, we participated in Cusco’s traditional run around the square, which can accurately be described as a massive crowd of awkward penguins stuck in a crowd and shuffling — as best as one can — around the square. I may even be so bold to say that it was one of the best New Years yet.