Exploring Denver’s Best Neighborhoods
Welcome to the Mile High City, a place where high-altitude hikes deliver stunning views and the beer is always flowing. At a mile above sea level, Colorado’s capital city will take your breath away - literally if not also figuratively.
My first foray in Denver was back in July 2019 when it served as a start and end point for our Colorado and Utah National Parks road trip. After a week of camping in unobstructed 90 degree heat, driving for days, and cleaning our bodies with baby wipes, Denver was like a siren calling to us from the rocks. “Come hither,” it said, “have a drink, take a rest. Also shower.” All in all, we spent a grand total of two days (if that) scootering around the city and hopping between speakeasies and breweries before flying home to Seattle. It may have been a quick trip, but it was memorable in its own right.
Fast forward to September 2021 and I was back in Denver, only this time around it was far less rushed and the temperature was pleasant enough that I didn’t feel like a vulnerable rotisserie chicken being seared from all angles by the summer sun. I spent a splendid weekend visiting a friend who recently moved to Denver and our time was spent settling her in and getting a lay of the land. We explored the nooks and crannies of the city’s neighborhoods and even met up with friends who had lived there for years and took the liberty of showing us around.
Keep reading for a quick run-down of three of the city’s best neighborhoods, all of which have been judged completely based on my own biased standards. If you like historical buildings, breweries, and scrumptious tacos, then you’ll find these neighborhoods to be right up your alley - and might I add that you have excellent taste.
Get Oriented
Lower Downtown
What sort of “best neighborhoods” list would this be if it didn’t include Lower Downtown? That’d be like neglecting to walk through Times Square in New York City. Although, to be fair, I’ve never been to New York City, so perhaps a more apt example is needed. Let’s try: “that’d be like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower.” A bit dramatic perhaps, but the point is clear: it’s a non-negotiable.
Lower Downtown, or LoDo as it better known, is the arguable heartbeat of the city. It checks all the boxes for a visitor-friendly neighborhood with its array of tasty food, lively atmosphere, and a solid amount of history to boot. LoDo is anchored by Union Station, the city’s first railroad station that is still in use today, 140 years after it was built (that’s 1881 if you don’t want to do the math). Close by is Coors Field, home to the Colorado Rockies baseball team, and Larimer Square, the trendiest of areas.
Replete with brick buildings, string lights, bright green plants, and outdoor cafes, Larimer Square is a true delight. The dining options are seemingly endless and it’s hard to pick between them; do you eat at a Mediterranean gem with fine wine pairings (Rioja), or head to a rooftop for tacos and tequila (Tamayo)? Should you dabble in indoor putt-putt (Urban Putt), or surrender your quarters to pinball (1Up Arcade)? Does the evening call for a cocktail at a speakeasy that uses a deck of cards as their menu (Run For The Roses), or a sultry whiskey bar (Seven Grand)? With all the fantastic options, you could make a whole set of BINGO cards with places to try and happily surprise yourself with something incredible each day. Speaking for myself, I’m grateful to have my friend’s couch so I can keep coming back again and again - and mark my words, I intend to.
Best of LoDo | 54thirty Rooftop, Denver Milk Market food hall, Run For the Roses speakeasy & union station
River North Arts District
If you imagine a street with a dozen breweries, then splash in a medley of colorful murals, and finally add a dash of gentrification, then you have a general sense of RiNo, the River North Arts District. This young neighborhood - both in demographic and its own age - is one of my personal favorites, but that’s because I’m a sucker for breweries and colorful murals and gentrification. Wait, what? I’m kidding on that last one, I promise.
The area of town that RiNo resides in was once an industrial base with few housing options and a gritty edge to it. Today, it is one of the city’s most desirable areas and housing has a high price tag slapped onto it. That said, it’s still growing and maintains that feeling of industrial emptiness, it’s just been pushed off to the edges, a bit out of sight. The core of RiNo, however, is a bustling area that is abuzz both day and night. Many of the breweries are set in former warehouses, resulting in open air taprooms and expansive outdoor spaces that are filled with people and dogs soaking up the Colorado sunshine. My exact kind of fun, as it happens.
On an impromptu Tour de RiNo, I thoroughly enjoyed the range of spots on offer; from the laidback Bierstadt Lagerhaus with it’s epic oversized Connect-4 game and the massive beer garden at Improper city, to the casual Denver Central Market food hall and the swanky vibe and high-class cocktails at the Ramble Hotel’s Death & Co. We enjoyed making our way down the main street and stopping to dance, grab a bite, and take cover from the rogue thunderstorms that are an inescapable fact of life in Denver.
Best of RiNo | O’dells brewery, Ratio Beerworks, Dio Mio Italian restaurant & Death & Co at the Ramble Hotel
capitol hill
If history is your M.O., then Capitol Hill is the spot for you. If seeing the “authentic” side of a city, including its grittiness, is your M.O., then Capitol Hill is the spot for you. If you like being surprised by immaculate and highly-detailed cathedrals that make you feel like you abruptly time-traveled to Europe, then Capitol Hill is the spot for you.
As one of Denver’s oldest neighborhoods, Capitol Hill holds much of the city’s roots and you can see how history unfolded as you walk its streets, especially through its eclectic architecture, including gothic-style churches, small stone buildings, and turn-of-the-century homes. Hard to miss are the large Victorian-era mansions from the city’s humble beginnings during the Gold Rush of the late 1800’s. As the city grew, it became more densely populated and appealed to the middle-class who built single-family homes, but a shift happened in the 1960’s and families began moving to more suburban areas, leaving behind transients and renters. A decline in safety and an increase in crime occurred throughout the late-1900’s, but today, Capitol Hill is shifting once again. Urban developments are seeing to its rise in popularity among new Denver transplants and those seeking a big city environment at a more affordable price. Plus, its convenient location and its medley of shops and restaurants are a big draw for locals and visitors alike.
As the name suggests, it is also the seat of government and where you will find the Capitol Building, whose fancy gold dome dominates the neighborhood. Many of the old mansions have tangential ties to the government as well, like the the 15,000 sq. ft. Croke-Patterson-Campbell Mansion that was built in 1891 for then-senator Thomas Croke, who apparently required a lot of elbow room. Then there’s the Governor’s Mansion, which, despite its name, was not originally built for a governor - but don’t you worry, a governor did live there eventually.
Best of Cap Hill | pizza at ritual social house, drinks at bang up the elephant!, the Cathedral Basilica & Hudson Hill Coffee
Boulder
Last but not least, I present Boulder. “But that’s not a Denver neighborhood!" you say, and I hear you, I do. But Boulder is a delightful spot and worthy of a quick mention. Plus, it’s 30 minutes from Denver, so we’ll call it a stone’s throw away. Unlike Denver, Boulder is not a sprawling metropolis, in fact, it’s fairly self-contained and rather small, but that’s what gives it its charm. Situated at the base of the Rockies, it is a beautiful area surrounded by tree-laden mountains. It is also home to the University of Colorado Boulder and boasts a vibrant atmosphere alongside a heap of outdoor activities.
We made our way there to do a short hike and started our adventure off right with coffee, because how else does one appropriately start their days? Trident Booksellers was a quality choice as it was a small, cozy spot with excellent coffee and a sweet outdoor patio in the back. After a quick jaunt up the mountain and back (complete with heavy high-altitude breathing on my part), we celebrated a victorious day with beer and burgers at the Bohemian Biergarten, where a decorator specializing in rustic Bavarian gastropub culture really went all out - but, you know, in a good way.
Honorable Mentions
While I only skimmed the surface of what Denver has to offer, there are a few spots that I enjoyed that are in neighborhoods not mentioned above. Of note are:
Recess Beer Garden | A delightful outdoor patio located in the Highland neighborhood.
Retrograde | A small speakeasy through a freezer in the back of an ice cream shop that plays classic slasher movies and has film-themed cocktails.
Bungalow | An outdoor cocktail bar complete with delectable tacos and cozy bungalows (which must be reserved, we would learn the hard way).
Little Man Ice Cream | A staple of the Highland neighborhood, this ice cream stand is hard to beat.