Camino del Norte | Stage 2: Getaria to Ibiri

Stage 2, from Getaria to Ibiri, falls under my Top 5 Walking Days (a list I’ve not actually created but if it did exist, this stage would surely be on there). What sets it apart is the alternative route, Ruta de Flysch, which snakes through verdant scenery and hugs the jagged coastline. From the medieval hamlet of Getaria, I walked through through farms and into quiet villages. Askizu, a name that sounds like the response to a sneeze, is a small village with narrow streets winding past flower-draped stone houses. The church steps⏤a building I’d wager could only hold eight people at any given time⏤was a good spot for a morning stretch.

In Elloriaga, I ran into a bevy of animals and then into friends that I’d met the previous day. We opted to deviate from the official Camino trail and walk along an alternative trail: Ruta de Flysch. This detour follows a trail set just above the ocean and showcases a rugged coastline (for the Game of Thrones fans among us, this is near to where they filmed scenes of Dragonstone). Some cliffs appear to be sliced clean by a knife, creating a wall to the waterline, while others are craggy faces. At the bottom, thinly cut rocks extend into long, neat lines that merge with the tide.

For miles, we strolled past horses on wild farm land, ate blueberries galore, and admired the geology of the place. Eventually, we made our way back to the main trail, though to get there we had to walk past a potent sewage plant⏤an experience that was the antithesis of the fresh air we just emerged from. Before continuing onto Deba we stopped for ice cream, you know, for good measure. My friends stayed at the municipal alergue in Deba (a common choice to overnight at) and I continued to Ibiri, where a secluded albergue in the hills awaited.

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Hostel Izarbide

Located all on its lonesome, Izarbide makes for a nice retreat. The albergue is clean and offers a field with tables and chairs to relax in. Note that it opens at 3pm and was full by 6pm.

→ Book Hostel Izarbide here (must WhatsApp them)

LOCATION Two miles from Deba, no services here

BED Bunk in communal room

COST €15 (includes nada)

ADD ON Laundry (€4), dinner (€13), breakfast (€5)

Other Options

Hostel Izarbide

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Take the Ruta de Flysch route. Make time for it because it’s worth every step.
There are no services in Ibiri. If staying here, grab snacks in Deba for the next day’s walk.

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