A Weekend in Bryce Canyon
Embracing our inner Weekend Warriors, we moseyed to Utah to see the hoodoo rock wizardry that is Bryce Canyon National Park. The word “wow” was used very liberally during our trip.
To reach this Southwestern gem, we tested our luck and flew into Las Vegas’ McCarran airport, about a 4-hour drive from Bryce Canyon, on Friday the 13th. While I had driven through the Southwest years ago, I either forgot how ridiculously gorgeous it is (unlikely), or I slept through the entire ride (highly likely), because holy moly, it is one fantastic slice of planet over there. Along the ride, I uttered the word “wow” over and over again like a broken record, which turned out to be my theme song throughout the weekend. Poor Jess, my desert-born best friend that grew up amongst the cacti and dry heat of Arizona, had to deal with my ooh-ing and ahh-ing all weekend long - and trust me, I did a serious amount of both within a 72-hour period.
Get Oriented
staying in the desert
Our first order of business was to check-in at our accommodations. This involved the very complex task of opening a gate, driving through said gate, and parking in front of our tipi. That’s right, I did indeed say “tipi.”
Stumbling upon this Airbnb gem is what initially set the trip in motion. Once I laid eyes on it from the comfort of my bed in Seattle, I was Googling flights and rental cars like a little planning ninja fueled by desert determination: Must get to Utah. Must stay in tipi.
The tipi is a 20-minute drive from the park entrance and is essentially perfect in every way for the no-frills traveler. In each, guests will find four cots, two small chairs, a fire pit, and gorgeous views. Sunrise wasn’t too shabby either.
A brief 3-day itinerary
Considering its smaller size, 2-3 days is the perfect amount of time to visit. Two days allows adequate time to do the scenic drive, a few hikes, and hit the main sights, while with three days you could throw in a longer hike or two.
Friday Afternoon
Settle into tipi, drive to Bryce Canyon
Ooh and ahh at everything
Catch sunset over Bryce Amphitheater
Saturday
Hike the Queen’s Garden
Explore Red Canyon (outside of Bryce)
Stargaze
Sunday Morning
Enjoy Sunrise from the tipi
Take the Scenic Drive
EXPLORING THE CANYON
Bryce is best known for a little something called a “hoodoo,” which, despite being an absolutely magical sight, is not to be confused with “voodoo.” For our purposes, hoodoos, or as we prefer to call them, “hoodudes,” are the tall geological formations that are unique and abundant to Bryce Canyon.
Their shape resembles a totem pole and they range from teensy-tiny to uber ginormous, which are both scientifically relevant terms to describe size. Hoodoos are created through erosion patterns, mineral deposits, frost wedging, and other fancy rock happenings which are better explained here, if you are interested.
When it comes to seeing the sights, you’re technically seeing the same thing over and over again, just from different perspectives. There are some hoodoos that are more famous than others, such as Thor’s Hammer, Wall Street, and the Wall of Windows, but each formation is interesting in its own right. The main viewpoint of the amphitheater is Bryce Point, with Inspiration, Sunrise and Sunset Points being equally as popular. It’s truly a wonderful hubbub of hoodoos, so you can’t go wrong in frolicking to your heart’s delight.
desert TRAILS
Queen’s Garden | 1.8 Miles | Difficulty: Easy
This is the main trail that snakes through the canyon, offering up-close hoodoo encounters. At 1.8 miles along mostly flat terrain, it is the easiest and most accessible trail, therefore this is also the most popular trail. We began at Sunset Point and ended at Sunrise Point (which sounds counterintuitive, but was a much nicer walk in my opinion). To extend the journey, you can venture onto the Navajo Loop or any of the longer trails in the area.
peek-a-boo loop | 5.5 Miles | Difficulty: moderate
This trail offers a good amount of ups and downs in terms of elevation, so it requires a decent level of fitness to tackle. It goes through the valley floor, offering great views the entire way.
Fairyland Loop | 8 Miles | Difficulty: Strenuous
This trail takes you deep into the canyon by dropping you on the valley floor. Hikers meander among hoodoos and and spires until reaching Boat Mesa.
SCENIC DRIVE
This 20-mile drive offers 10 overlook stops that offer fantastic views of the canyon. It is suggested to drive all the way to the end and work your way back, which is just what we did. Each overlook offers a unique perspective of the canyon, with Rainbow Canyon, Agua Canyon, Black Birch Canyon, and Natural Bridge being my favorites.
If you have time and want more of a challenge than a mere drive, there are trails departing from each viewpoint. Do your research first though, as many are backcountry trails that require proper planning.
Viewpoints, from farthest to nearest:
MILE 18 | Rainbow Canyon and Yovimpa Point
MILE 16 | Black Birch Canyon
MILE 15 | Ponderosa Canyon
MILE 13 | Agua Canyon
MILE 12 | Natural Bridge
MILE 11 | Fairview Point
MILE 10 | Piracy Point
MILE 6 | Swamp Canyon
MILE 3 | Paria View Overlook turnoff
Mile 3 | Inspiration Point turnoff (first left)
RED CANYON
The desert fun doesn’t end in Bryce Canyon but continues outside its bounds as well. One such area, Red Canyon, offers an untouched and raw landscape that was void of people. This heavenly bit of land served as my personal playground as I ran around the trees and climbed up and down rocks to my heart’s content.
READY TO BOOGEY TO BRYCE?
If you are getting jazzed about hoodoos right now, I don’t blame you. In fact, I applaud your enthusiasm and support it. If you decide that Bryce Canyon is the place you need to be (and trust me, it is), then there are few things I’d keep in mind:
Time Difference | If you are coming from Las Vegas, don’t forget there is a 1-hour time difference.
Passes & Fees | If you want to drive through Zion National Park when going to or from Bryce, consider purchasing the America the Beautiful park pass ($80 for an annual pass to all National Parks), as opposed to paying $30 for a 7-day pass to each park.
Shuttle | There is a shuttle service that goes through the park should you desire it. We didn’t use it, but it’s there if you need it!
Beer | Stop at River Rock Roasting Company for a cold one when coming or going… or both!